Fabre Montmayou Malbecs

Originally Published in Vines On Pine Newsletter

In the interest of full disclosure, I should point out that I have a special relationship with Malbec. It is the wine that reminds me of my late father. He was from Buenos Aires and loved his fine wine, almost as much as I do. I was his only son and he and I were very close. For these reasons, I have shied away from reviewing Malbecs as I tend to be very critical of them, almost as though I subconsciously hold them to a higher standard than other varietals.

I remember Pop reminiscing at the kitchen table about his gorgeous homeland over a thick grass-fed steak and a rich glass of Malbec. He spoke of how organic farming techniques were always employed in Argentina, by law, but also out of respect for one’s craft, and how it was only logical and not a fad per se.

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Its College Day

A walk down memory lane...

November, 1989..

It’s College Day at Bronx high school of science. At the beginning of this, my junior year, we are all assigned a college advisor to assist us in navigating the dark waters of college selection and the minefield that is the financial aid process.  On this particular day, all third year students meet with their faculty advisor and their parents to discuss their options, and strategize the upcoming application process.

We are all lined up, in pairs (or triads in rare cases), parent and student on a line that stretches all the way down the 400 feet from the guidance office to the boys locker room, and snakes around the labyrinthine hallway that comprises the basement level of the school, all the way to the cafeteria, awaiting our respective turns to pow wow with the shaman that is our advisor.

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Columbia Valley Splendor

I had an odd epiphany tonight. Danielle and I went to see the film 'Argo', and I enjoyed it immensely. Even though I knew how the movie would turn out, I was still riveted by the tale of the great escape of the 6 American Embassy employees during the Iranian hostage crisis of 1979-80. This was solid film making by Ben Affleck and company. The story was suspenseful, the characters nuanced, the pacing was perfect and the attention to detail was omnipresent. So even though the film had a lot of hype to live up to, it was masterfully executed. I was literally cheering, tears welling up in my eyes when the credits were rolling.

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Two Elegant Rieslings for Winter

Originally written for Petito Wine Selections Blog, published 01/16/13

Riesling is a wine typically associated with summer, I know. But with winter well settled in and sunlight and warmth in short supply, a bit of summer may be just the thing to brighten our spirits. The right Riesling paired with a hearty meal can bring a delightful twist to the usual routine and develop a new appreciation for one of the most versatile and fascinating varietals of wine.

This time of year, the most popular choices tend to be full-bodied reds like California Cabernets, Argentine Malbecs, etc. These wines are fine seasonal choices due to cravings for comfort foods when the temperature drops below freezing. I know that I adore a great Cabernet as much as the next oenophile with a juicy rib-eye steak. These bold reds are classics for a reason, but there will be all winter to enjoy them.

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Moncontour Cremant Rose

Now that we are in the festive home stretch of the holidays, I am feeling a bit nostalgic. Nothing gets me going quite like memories of New Years’ past. Every year had its own sensibility and underlying theme. I remember the first New Year’s Eve when I was allowed to go to a party without my folks. It was magic. That feeling of luxury coupled with celebratory abandon was encapsulated perfectly in the midnight toast. The anticipation, the count down, and the “POP” of corks was sublime. (In the name of good taste I wont take that metaphor any further.)

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Chateau L'Hermitage 2010

Every year here in New York I tend to get that stressed out feeling between Thanksgiving and Christmas. It seems inevitable. Between the slate gray skies, gargantuan Christmas expenditures, stress induced bronchitis and the 21.2 minutes of daily sunlight, I can find myself at wits’ end. My solution is usually to treat myself to something special, but something that won’t break the bank; something to at once sooth my senses and boost my morale.

In this vein I picked up a bottle of 2010 Chateau L’Hermitage for $14.99, a fantastic, if unusual 50-50 blend of Mourvedre, and Syrah.

It comes from the Rhone Valley of France, where the distinctively rich clay soil and sunlight give birth to some really unique and amazing wines. I uncorked a bottle of it the other night and couldn’t help but smile, in spite of myself, as the strong aroma of dark fruits and earth greeted my nostrils. I left it to breathe for about 20 minutes as I took a warm shower and my fiancée prepared dinner.

We sat down to a meal of her signature risotto with mushrooms and leeks. The creamy, velvety and rich rice coupled perfectly with the red currant and pungent, earthy undertone of this special wine. Like walking into a warm, inviting store playing Christmas jazz on the radio on a cold, stressful shopping day, this was the cure for what was ailing me. The flavors meshed perfectly, like the notes in Louis Armstrong’s “Cool Yule.” And just like this sublime piece of music, this classy, jazzy wine, had me in a great mood in a matter of seconds.

The Mourvedre grapes in the wine create a pungent, bright cherry flavor that greets the palate, and the Syrah brings a luxuriously complex, distinctly French structure, gorgeous pepper and spice and long, lush, silky finish, which highlighted the risotto perfectly.

So after a long day of fighting crowds, cold weather, traffic and budgetary constraints brought on by a holiday featuring an overweight spendthrift from the North Pole (Yes, I’m talking about YOU, Mr Kringle), my solution is to take a short, virtual trip to the Rhone in the fall, for some TLC. What the heck, it’s cheaper than a trip to Vegas or L.A. to escape the holiday madness.

Colombus Day

Columbus Day is the time to reflect on all things Italian. What does it mean to be Italian? As the sole Italian here at Vines, I am tasked with addressing this philosophical/enological question.

For years, many Americans viewed Italian food and wine through the lenses of Pizza, spaghetti and meatballs, Pinot Grigio, and Chianti in straw baskets. All of these images and tastes, served on the ubiquitous red checked tablecloth of stereotype.

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Cave de Tain Crozes Hermitage Blanc

Subtlety is not in high regard these days, I know. Just watch any TV channel or go to the movies. People seem drawn to their big, bold wines, safe bets, and the trashiest reality TV shows. Why, you ask? They require less thinking. They are easy. 

I say there is more to be appreciated off the beaten path. While I certainly love a classic, there is a lot to be gained from getting to know a lesser-known wine. It gives me a certain, almost guilty and smug sense of satisfaction when I can drink a $17 white Crozes Hermitage while reading clichéd raving reviews of expensive and excessively oaked American Chardonnays. 

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Going to the Food Prom at French Laundry

For most of us, eating at the The French Laundry is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Getting a reservation feels like an odd combination of winning the culinary lottery and going to the prom, due in equal parts to its draconian reservation policy (only accepted 60 days in advance to the date) and because it’s widely considered the “best restaurant in the world.”

When a friend tells you they’ve secured a rez to the end-all, be-all of haute cuisine, I don’t care how broke you are, or how lactose intolerant your girlfriend happens to be; you get yourself to Yountville. The bragging rights alone are worth the $270 per person! (That includes service charge, but sadly, not wine nor add-ons).

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Double Wide Meals at Cozy Cottage

Cozy Cottage is an unspoiled utilitarian gem unlike any pretentious Manhattan barbecue hot spot, trendy Williamsburg fauxthentic truck stop, or other contrived “comfort food” eatery for image-conscious hipsters. The Cottage is a breath of fresh Bronx air.

Safely tucked away in an industrial corner of the northeast Bronx, it’s far enough away from the aforementioned hipsters looking to “urbanize,” as well as the drunken Wall Streeters slumming the night away in the meatpacking district or perma-rexic models perching at a trendy brunch spot to sip Bellinis and have cell phone dates while ignoring their food and companions.

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